Oil Leather Boots, the Easy Way

I’ve found that oiling boots is a chore that keeps getting put off, because people don’t want to go get the stuff needed to do the job, and most methods are time consuming. Well, this method is really fast and easy.

The trick is to use a brush instead of a cloth, and to keep the brush in a pan of oil all the time. The pan is a low cost, like less than $2 new, baking pan. The oil is Neatsfoot oil that I buy by the gallon. It’s a better price that by the quart. The brush is a cheap bristle brush that most people consider disposable. This one has lasted for months immersed in oil, with no sign of falling apart. The aluminum foil is a folded over double layer, this is to keep dust out.

This will extend your boot life, and is wa-a-a-ay easier than anything else I’ve done.

History Pages

I’ll be making pages about East Tn history. I should have done it sooner, because on some of them, they’re a record of a question I asked on social media, and the answers are better than the information I get from online searches. The first one is about Green’s Store, and Green’s Rolling store. I got some really neat replies.

The second page is about why tree trunks were painted white in times past. Some good answers there to, I’ll be looking up how to make lime paint.

The third page is about buildings in the East TN area. Only one picture so far.

I think it was a RR depot

A Cover For The Torch

I use oxy-propane instead of oxy-acetylene for my cutting torch. My shop space is small, so I don’t store it inside. For a few years, I’ve had it under a new plastic trash can, but it looks bad. I finally made a cover for it, from scrounged metal a friend had left over from a job. The winds always blow north or south, so it only needs the side walls. It rained a few hours after I made it, so it’s already been tested.

The ‘pragmatic’ cover
The torch set itself.
Much better.

Big Job, Winter Scenes

I’m painting a large RR coach right now, and the paint booth that it’s in is only available for a limited time; so I have to concentrate on that job. There are still things going on with the Quill and Blade business.

I’ve been thinking about how to make a steam bender for wood. Initially, I planned on using a large section of round metal duct work; which is a dark grey color. I want the project to have an old time look. Then I saw a guy online who has one in his shop. It was a long box, not a round tube. His is made of wood, and I realized that metal would be too difficult to heat, and the square dimensions are smarter for putting in squared wood.

I also lubed my collection of manual jacks (not hydraulic) and made better handles for them. It’s the first time in months I’ve had the forge fired up. I’ll use these to lift my wood building up for transportation.

Here’s a few winter scenes from the recent snow fall. My blog posting will be sparse the next several days.

The canoe waits for the warm season, the bull tolerates the cold.

Country Living

A neighbor raises cattle, one of his calves got stuck in mud, and its mother abandoned it. My kids pulled it out and brought it home. It’s winter, and we don’t know how long it was left there. The first picture shows my daughter trying to give it warm fresh milk from our own Jersey cow, while it’s still in the box we brought it home in. The calf didn’t drink much, and couldn’t stand up. It was determined that it probably wouldn’t make it.

But it was given a warm bath, which changed it’s condition very much. It’s now drinking milk, and standing.

I came out one recent morning, and the moon was still bright, but just about to go down behind the trees.

My First Cherry Wood Pipe

I got a lot further along on my Cheery wood pipe today; it’s pretty much finished save for a little fitting between the stem and bowl. This first picture shows the large hole being bored. The stem is in two pieces, one is a piece of pine that I think is from the 1870’s. That piece has walnut stain on it, but no clear yet. The shroud for the stem is Cholla wood from Texas that my daughter sent. When I got it, there was a dark grey outer layer on all the surfaces. I took a small pocket knife blade, and scraped all that off. It was a bit time consuming to get at all the contours, but worth it. Then I put a coat of amber colored shellac on it; because it already had an unusual yellow color.

Step by step

In the next picture, it’s assembled and ready to test. As I said, it still needs some more fitting. You can see the threaded brass piece I used to attach the stem to the bowl, which would be hidden had the fitting been better. The bowl is Cherry wood, with one coat of clear shellac. these days people use fast drying lacquer as a seal coat, which works really well, in terms of production time. Shellac is traditional, which I like, and they say it brings out the color of wood better.

Not completely ready, but good enough for a test run.

The next picture was obviously hand held in low light conditions, but there it is, smoke from the first bowl full. In case you’re seeing this pipe project for the first time, I’ll reiterate: Pipes aren’t smoked the same way cigarettes are. they’re not inhaled, which makes a huge difference in terms of health hazard. Yes, there are warnings about oral cancer, but I don’t have one of these in my mouth all day, so I’m not terribly worried.

This pipe is actually huge in overall size compared to the average tobacco pipe. I’ve been researching the Indian smoking blend called KinnikKinnick; and have mixed up a bit of it. That’s what I thought I’d use this pipe for, but I decided to break it in with a Cavendish Tobacco blend, because frankly, the two part Indian blend I made up smells like a cross between Autumn leaves and cardboard when burned. Maybe the addition of Red Willow bark will help. Not a big deal, as I wanted it for the novelty and variety. I think I’ll do a separate post about the Kinni-Kinnick, because it’s worth it.